2001 Oldsmobile Aurora? GM?|||Any mechanic that you trust will be OK. Ask around with your friends and co-workers and find a good shop or mechanic. It's best not to take it to a dealer, because they are way too expensive and don't do any better work. The only reason to take it to a dealer is for warranty work and I'm sure this cars warranty has expired.|||some one you trust or ask a friend who they use and if there any good.|||Any GM dealership.|||if not under warranty i would never go to a dealership.
I go to a neighborhood garage|||Chevrolet-they originally manufactured them.Alot of the parts are interchangeable with other GM cars.|||Get rid of it, grab a Ford, and don't look back.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
How do I get a hubcab off of a 1980 oldsmobile?
I have a 1980 oldsmobile that the hubcab lock has fallen off and into the hubcap. I have the unlocking tool, but the lock of the hubcap has simply fallen off. I've tried prying it off with a crowbar, but haven't used too much pressure. Is there anything I can do to get it off? The tire is flat and looses air so I need to change the tire.|||All those I have seen have a cone with 3 ears that bolts on with the lug nuts the a special screw in the center keeps the hubcap from coming off if this is the case you will need to get physical or use a torch Dealerships are often helpful if you ask them what needs to be done|||Screwdriver, and a little pressure in the the right direction.|||pop the center cap off and take off the nut.|||kick it
How do I fix the cruise control button on my Oldsmobile Alero?
I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. My cruise control works, but I have to hold down the On/Off button to use it. I suspect that the button or something under it is broken.
If I try to take the button off myself, is it possible to set something off and deploy the airbag? Should I take it to an automotive shop or a dealer?|||i don't think that can be done alone , u'll need some assistance , or better go to the dealer|||take it in. you may not want the headache if you are not familiar with it.|||You will need to replace the multi function switch. It's not terribly expensive parts and labor at a shop.|||with the cruise, I would go to the dealer because the mechanics there will be more familiar with your car and will have access to the bulleitins on this problem.
If I try to take the button off myself, is it possible to set something off and deploy the airbag? Should I take it to an automotive shop or a dealer?|||i don't think that can be done alone , u'll need some assistance , or better go to the dealer|||take it in. you may not want the headache if you are not familiar with it.|||You will need to replace the multi function switch. It's not terribly expensive parts and labor at a shop.|||with the cruise, I would go to the dealer because the mechanics there will be more familiar with your car and will have access to the bulleitins on this problem.
What car makes, models and years are interchangeable with 2000 oldsmobile Alero?
I am looking to find out what cars (years models make etc.) are compatible with a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. I am concerned with what cars will have the same engine setup. I specifically need to replace the air intake box. I need the parts that enclose the air filter. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!|||Well, it's essentially a clone of the 2000 Pontiac Grand Am...
What is wrong with my oldsmobile aleros breaks?
I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Alero GLS coupe. When I use the breaks even at low speed on dry pavement, the anti-lock activates and makes a growling noise. Then my traction control, ABS and service vehicle soon lights come on. After that, the anti-lock dosn't activate and the breaks work good. What is causing this?|||Have your ABS sensors checked, bad sensors will do this EXACT scenerio..|||have you checked your brake fluid? sounds like it could be that or an electrical problem. maybe you should take it to a dealer.
How many watts a 1998 oldsmobile achieva stock stereo puts out?
I have a 1998 oldsmobile achieva. I have a stock stereo and speakers. I am looking to replace the speakers but cannot find information on the stereo anywhere. it only has a cassette player, no cd player. If someone could tell me how many Watts it puts out? Please and thank you!|||Usually there is a wattage marked on the magnet frame of each speaker. You'll have to look at them. The stereo is less than or equal to that. It wouldn't hurt a bit to use replacements that are rated for higher wattage. That won't make them play louder, but it will help the speakers last longer. Also pay attention to the impedance which will be something like 4 ohms or 8 ohms. Don't use lower impedance than the stock speakers.|||if it has the an amp in the trunk probably 200 peak and 100 rms, otherwise a stock radio like that is around 40 wattsx4 peak
Why does my 1987 Oldsmobile Toronado's engine totally quit after going a short distance?
My 1987 Oldsmobile Torornado has a chronic and potentially dangerous problem. It always starts easily but after going a short distance, rarely more than a mile or so, the engine totally quits (along with the entire electrical system). An experienced mechanic looked at the problem and declared that he did not have the answer. I can't determine whether it is a fuel, an electric, or an electronic problem but I'm not driving the short until I solve the problem. Thanking you in advance for your help.|||Have you tried a new battery???? That is the first stop. The alternator might not be charging the battery anymore. Get the alternator tested. Otherwise it might be junk!!!|||You just said the entire electrical system quit. Do you mean that? That would be incredibly easy to troubleshoot, if you're serious. I can't imagine how you'd think it was fuel related. I suspect you didn't say exactly what you meant.
Get yourself a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge. You can start troubleshooting with that. You'll find the multi-meter is the most useful tool you can have.|||I'm not sure you have worded this question properly. Are you saying the motor stalls and there is no electrical power anymore? There were tons of problems with the sensors and electronic devices with this type of a motor, I am presuming it is a 3.8L code 3 motor. It helps to say what your car is equipped with as it makes a difference. When I say stalling, it just means the motor quits and you can restart it, maybe it will be a hard start but it will run and maybe stall again. If that's the case, have a good look at the crank sensor for it being loose. They changed the type of sensor for this reason. Also you can try to tap on the sensor carefully when the motor is running as this would simulate an intermittent problem. If any of this acts up, replace the sensor. Try tapping on the MAF sensor by the air cleaner, again if the motor farts or coughs replace it. I think you shoud also be checking the condition of the power and ground connections throughout the under hood connectors. These did have a tendency to loosen or corrode. Have a good look at the positive cable down to the starter as some of these would start to short to ground over time. I did have one of these cars that would cut out and I could hear relays clicking when it did this. That one turned out to have shorted supply relays which burned out the power control module inside the car. This was not the PCM that runs the motor, but a module that supplied the other modules with power to avoid voltage spikes to all the electronics inside the car. Be a little more specific with another question and I'll get back to you. Good luck.|||If your entire electrical quits at the same time, check your battery cables for any loose connections, especially the ground wire-to-frame connection.|||Heres a possible theory on the fuel side.I had an Audi which used to do the same,it turned out to be a blocked gas tank breather system! The easy way to diagnose this is drive untill the symptoms appear then open your gas cap you may hear air hissing into the tank.The pump can only draw fuel to a certain point then the vacuum becomes too great and 'overpowers' the pump.This may not account for any electrical probs, but it's worth a try! Good luck!
Get yourself a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge. You can start troubleshooting with that. You'll find the multi-meter is the most useful tool you can have.|||I'm not sure you have worded this question properly. Are you saying the motor stalls and there is no electrical power anymore? There were tons of problems with the sensors and electronic devices with this type of a motor, I am presuming it is a 3.8L code 3 motor. It helps to say what your car is equipped with as it makes a difference. When I say stalling, it just means the motor quits and you can restart it, maybe it will be a hard start but it will run and maybe stall again. If that's the case, have a good look at the crank sensor for it being loose. They changed the type of sensor for this reason. Also you can try to tap on the sensor carefully when the motor is running as this would simulate an intermittent problem. If any of this acts up, replace the sensor. Try tapping on the MAF sensor by the air cleaner, again if the motor farts or coughs replace it. I think you shoud also be checking the condition of the power and ground connections throughout the under hood connectors. These did have a tendency to loosen or corrode. Have a good look at the positive cable down to the starter as some of these would start to short to ground over time. I did have one of these cars that would cut out and I could hear relays clicking when it did this. That one turned out to have shorted supply relays which burned out the power control module inside the car. This was not the PCM that runs the motor, but a module that supplied the other modules with power to avoid voltage spikes to all the electronics inside the car. Be a little more specific with another question and I'll get back to you. Good luck.|||If your entire electrical quits at the same time, check your battery cables for any loose connections, especially the ground wire-to-frame connection.|||Heres a possible theory on the fuel side.I had an Audi which used to do the same,it turned out to be a blocked gas tank breather system! The easy way to diagnose this is drive untill the symptoms appear then open your gas cap you may hear air hissing into the tank.The pump can only draw fuel to a certain point then the vacuum becomes too great and 'overpowers' the pump.This may not account for any electrical probs, but it's worth a try! Good luck!
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